Bursting at the seams with maximalism and eccentricity, London Fashion Week never fails to deliver when it comes to inspiring larger-than-life designs.
Though the city’s biggest and most memorable names such as Simone Rocha, Molly Godard and Richard Malone have once again exceeded all expectations to bring us collections that will largely determine what everyone will be wearing come next season, designers that offer a more sensible, pared-back aesthetic such as Victoria Beckham, Roksanda and Burberry still manage to wow us with reinvented silhouettes and refreshing new perspectives.
From the once-stoic checkered print, that’s now seen saturated in pastels and a spectrum of rainbow colours, to a melange of elegant and expert draped dresses and separates that would make Madame Grès beam with pride, here’s what London has to say about the trends we’re coping next season.
1. Scarf galore
Photos: Burberry, Showbit
Back in the 50s, neck scarves were the epitome of glamour and ritz. Think Grace Kelly and Audrey Hepburn, with a silk scarf draped and knotted loosely around their necks or hair.
Flash forward to today, and we’re seeing designers pulling all stops to incorporate the It-accessory for Parisian elegance into their outfits as creatively as possible.
At Burberry, we saw the scarf tied around the waist. At Erdem, it was draped on one shoulder and across the bodice. But prevailing as a highlight at the Preen by Thornton Bregazzi show, the silk scarf reared its head while tied around the neck or a source of inspiration for the bevy of asymmetrical scarf hem dresses.
2. Wrap and drape
With an emphasis on sculptural draping next season, designers sent dreamy, softly draped dresses floating down the runway.
The focus isn’t just on dresses, there were plenty of figure framing separates that veered more towards the structured side by dint of Chalayan, who delivered a series of elegantly wrapped and draped crop tops teamed with breezy culottes.
Richard Malone and JW Anderson, on the other hand, have breathtaking relaxed dresses that are practically fit for the 2020 goddess.
3. Superhero story
Championing that trend are: Richard Quinn ala a stunning botanical one-piece jumpsuit and a matching cape trailing effortlessly behind; Rolan Mouret, with a white sculptural dress that ups the ante with an attached cape draped over the shoulders; Roksanda and Burberry, both with ponchos so incredibly chic, that we’re officially convinced that we should (nay, NEED to) bust out our ponchos even in Singapore’s non-stop summer heat.
4. Check please
“Check and mate” to all other trends, this one’s here to dominate.
Seen rendered in soft spring hues like pastel pink and bright in-your-face colours, next season’s checkered print wants to be seen – and it wants to be seen boldly. Rejina Pyo’s charming square neck midi dress boasts of a matured rainbow pattern that’s fit for an adult who still craves for fun.
Emilia Wickstead champions a pink gingham gown with matching sleeves, while Victoria Beckham offers a tailored two-piece suit with classic black-and-white checks that is perhaps more wearable for those who prefer something more subtle.
5. Flounces and ounces
There’s no denying it: S/S ‘20 is hereby declared “ruffle season”.
Ruffles were seen everywhere from trimming the pockets and sleeves of a semi-sheer latte-coloured shirt at Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, adorning the borders of a neon coral pinafore at Christopher Kane, and garnishing the neckline and sleeves of the blouses and dresses at Victoria Beckham.
Spanning the spectrum of small and dainty trimmings to massive tiers of frills, romantic flounces are back with a vengeance this coming spring.
6. Sheer will
It’s what’s underneath that matters. Taking that saying quite literally, designers are embracing diaphanous sheer tops and dresses that are appliqued over outfits – a clever styling cue that draws our attention to what lies beneath.
In the case of Simone Rocha, “what lies beneath” happens to be a saccharine white shirt dress, and the see-through overlay in question is a gorgeous organza number with puffy sleeves and embroidery of periwinkle blue flowers.
Richard Malone had a ruched gossamer column dress styled over a skin-tight bodysuit underneath while Molly Goddard delivered her quintessential fun, feminine flair with a black tulle dress worn lightly over a tube cropped top and a calf-length skirt.