From The Straits Times    |

TOKYO – Designer Tamae Hirokawa’s first fashion creation in 2006 was a bodywear range called Skin, described as creating “possibilities of apparel for a body”, the unique knitted patterns create an lace-like overlay on the body and the full-bodystockings (that even cover the head in some cases) are supposed to be the foundation of a woman’s look.

somarta and somarta skin aw14 at tokyo fashion week DECOR MAINExhibition of Somarta Skin at Somarta Autumn Winter 2014-15 show. Image: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tokyo

For the Somarta Autumn Winter 2014-15 collection, Hirokawa’s work was displayed as an installation of numerous mannequins covered in Skin bodystockings of all sorts ‒ nude lace, coloured versions and stunning pieces encrusted with crystals or silver metal droplets. As the foundation of a woman’s look, these pieces are remarkable. They are beautiful, delicate and unique; the concept creates a tracery of lines across the body adding dimension and depth.

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Details of Somarta Skin exhibition at Somarta Autumn Winter 2014-15 show.
Images: Niki Bruce using Samsung NX30 camera

Unfortunately, once they’re covered with Somarta ready-to-wear the delicate beauty is lost; the concept doesn’t really translate, particularly in the current collection entitled “Aroon”.

The designer sent out a series of looks that managed to somehow combine about eight different ideas in every look; in fact the entire collection appeared to have eight different concepts. There were loose-fronted jackets and coats with asymmetric hems, contrast colour and fabric collars or sleeves; digital print leggings under textured skirts with sweaters that had multi-fabric sleeves ‒ oh and printed skarves attached; boxy, high-waisted pleated skirts with gold buttons; waterfall front jackets over contrast coloured dresses; some sort of hairy fur jacket; loose pants; wrap dresses with chiffon pleats inserted into a draped skirt; a digital print t-shirt … basically there was everything plus the kitchen sink all worn with Skin bodysuits underneath which just added to the overall busyness.

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Looks from Somarta Autumn Winter 2014-15 with Somarta Skin bodysuits worn underneath.
Images: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tokyo

While some of the knit pieces work well with the underlying bodystockings, the heavier woven jackets, pants, dresses and skirts look too blocky, too divorced from the lace-effect. While a contrast of smooth, opaque colour could work, the designer added layers on layers ‒ colours, draped asymmetric hemlines, multiple textures, prints, leggings.

The best combination of the bodystockings and ready-to-wear was in the looks that featured knit as the fabric of choice; a fabulous oversized three-dimensional jumper worn with a chiffon skirt just peaking out from under it; a red knit dress with a waterfall skirt and a pale blue grey version worn with a dark blue knit over jacket.

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somarta and somarta skin aw14 at tokyo fashion week DECOR MODELS IN SKIN

Knit looks working with Somarta Skin at Somarta Autumn Winter 2014-15 (above top) and the models as mannequins at the finale. Images: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tokyo

In previous collections the designer has successfully managed to create looks that complement the Skin bodysuits by sticking to a single colour, simple, flowing lines and by incorporating the knit motifs into the ready-to-wear as either pattern or actual knitted pieces. It’s obvious that it can be done; it’s just that for AW14 something didn’t quite go right.

The concept of Hirokawa’s Skin bodysuits is unique and lovely, her knit pieces for ready-to-wear also have a certain charm about them; it’s such a shame that the designer worked in fabrics, shapes, colours and prints that were unnecessary and somewhat detrimental to the overall look for Autumn Winter 2014-15.

For more information about Somarta, go to www.somarta.jp. To shop Somarta ready-to-wear, go to www.stylife.co.jp/somarta. You can follow the brand on Twitter at @somarta_jp and on Facebook at www.facebook.com/somarta.jp. For more information about Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tokyo, go to tokyo-mbfashionweek.com. You can follow the event on Facebook at www.facebook.com/MercedesBenzFashionWeekTOKYO and on Twitter at @MBFWT_official