For her Spring Summer 2014 collection “Awakening” for fashion label 20:Twothree, Singapore designer Genevieve Goh says she wants buyers to “explore their own awareness”; but of what, she doesn’t really say.

singapore fashion label 20 TWOTHREE ss14 DECOR 1The ‘Awakening’ collection for 20:Twothree Spring Summer 2014 featuring Singapore models Alex Lim (left) and Irina Tan (right). Image: 20:Twothree

“The amalgamation of different textures accentuate the many interpretations of ‘Awakening’,” explains Goh. “The relationship between drapery and fitted silhouette is explored through manipulation of traditional construction.”

Goh goes on to point out that the word “awakening” can mean any number of things including the obvious “to wake up from slumber or delusion” to “a change from a rut” and “realising the truth behind a facade”.

singapore fashion label 20 TWOTHREE ss14 DECOR 3Looks from 20:Twothree Spring Summer 2014 collection entitled ‘Awakening’.
Images: 20:Twothree

What all this translates into when it comes to the clothes is a series of muted, almost unisex shapes in black and white that combine a feeling of monastic simplicity with the textural qualities of early Comme des Garçons. The use of natural fabrics like cotton, French terry cotton and linen add to the soft, easy feel of the pieces.

singapore fashion label 20 TWOTHREE ss14 DECOR 4singapore fashion label 20 TWOTHREE ss14 DECOR 5
Looks from 20:Twothree SS14 collection. Images: 20:Twothree

The lookbook for the collection is rather nice, featuring as it does two of Singapore’s emerging models, Alex Lim who recently starred in the movie The Lion Men, and Irina Tan. Shot by Lenne Chai and styled by Elyn.K, the images evoke a kind of post-apocalyptic feel; implying, perhaps, an awakening to a new world.

singapore fashion label 20 TWOTHREE ss14 DECOR 2The 20:Twothree SS14 ‘Awakening’ lookbook was shot by Singapore photographer Lenne Chai and features Singapore models Alex Lim (above) and Irina Tan. Image: 20:Twothree

The pieces come together nicely with a strong, single theme running throughout – something Goh has struggled with in previous collections, often showing a somewhat schizophrenic story with multiple ideas. Her Autumn Winter 2013-14 range began a refinement of the label’s DNA with the introduction of unisex shapes in comfortable, easy-wear fabrics; a good start to creating a strong concept for the brand.

While the “Awakening” collection continues the designer’s work in blending the sexes to create an easily wearable range of loose-fit pieces, there is still a long way to go before 20:Twothree becomes a label with a really distinctive DNA. There are few stand-out designs to really shout about, and the influence of major designers like Comme des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo remains obvious.

Still, there is appears to be a new awareness in the collection as a whole; the continuation of a formula that works combined with a refinement in the lines of the pieces bodes well for future “awakenings”.

The 20:TwoThree Awakening collection will be available from Threadbare & Squirrel, 660 North Bridge Road, Tel: 6396 6738, and Workshop Element, #01-36/37, Westgate mall, from April 2014, and from Acutually at Orchard Gateway from the end of April 2014. The collection is priced from $109 to $239. For more information about 20:TwoThree, go to 20twothree.com; follow the brand on Facebook at www.facebook.com/20TWOTHREE, on Twitter at @20TWOTHREE and on Instagram at @20TWOTHREE.  To book Alex Lim, go to www.looque.com.sg/model/alex-lim; to book Irina Tan, go to www.cal-carries.com/sg/models/irina-tan. For more information about photographer Lenne Chai, go to cargocollective.com/lenne; you can also follow her blog at aetienne.net.