SINGAPORE – Debuted at Tokyo Fashion Week in March 2014, the Autumn Winter 2014-15 collection for cult emerging Japanese fashion label Dresscamp had a complete set of men’s and womenswear looks, a box-shaped runway, extreme styling, specially made wigs and shoes and a spooky lighting and sound set-up.

DRESSCAMP AW14 at Audi Fashion Festival 2014 DECOR 1Womenswear looks from Dresscamp Autumn Winter 2014-15. Images: Wesley Kow for herworldPLUS

For the Singapore incarnation of the show at Audi Fashion Festival 2014, designer Toshikazu Iwaya made a few adjustments ‒ fewer heavy winter looks and a single-lane runway due to the configuration of the Tent @ Orchard ‒ but the sense of the collection based on his costume designs for the Japanese version of the musical “The Threepenny Opera” produced by Amon Miyamoto, remained essentially the same.

The lighting was low (the lowest of all the shows so far), the sound track the same, the wigs and shoes were flown to Singapore and the clothes, of course, retained their unique mix of streetwear and sharp, European tailoring ‒ the two juxtaposed interests of Iwaya.

DRESSCAMP AW14 at Audi Fashion Festival 2014 DECOR 4Womenswear looks from Dresscamp Autumn Winter 2014-15. Images: Wesley Kow for herworldPLUS

Using eight female models and seven male models, the roughly 30 looks combined Iwaya’s two interests meshed into a range of slightly exaggerated shapes that nonetheless highlighted the designer’s exceptional cutting skills.

DRESSCAMP AW14 at Audi Fashion Festival 2014 DECOR 2Womenswear looks from Dresscamp Autumn Winter 2014-15. Images: Wesley Kow for herworldPLUS

Neophyte fashionistas likened the womenswear to the Gothic Lotita of the Harajuku streets ‒ and yes, the superficial similarities of cinched-waist-big-skirt shapes adorned with ruffles or fabric roses does lend itself to this comparison. However, the exquisite detailing of the narrow bodices and the oversized, three-dimensionality of the skirts and dresses created a more surreal, nuanced take on a classic look.

DRESSCAMP AW14 at Audi Fashion Festival 2014 DECOR 3Menswear looks from Dresscamp Autumn Winter 2014-15. Images: Wesley Kow for herworldPLUS

The exaggerated shapes in the womenswear was echoed by the use of chain prints on the menswear pieces sweatsuits and puffer jackets; the hip-hop street pimp caricature made blatant in a look that included a “pimp” hat and long coat. These subtle, but loving, jibes at the “Japanisation” of American pop culture that gave rise to cult looks like the Gyaru girl and “Japafarians” or Japanese Rastafarians as well the wholesale adoption of American hip-hop culture, are in fact symbols of Iwaya’s sense of humour.

DRESSCAMP AW14 at Audi Fashion Festival 2014 DECOR 5Womenswear looks from Dresscamp Autumn Winter 2014-15. Images: Wesley Kow for herworldPLUS

After all, as Iwaya said in his interview with me previously, “fashion is about having fun”.

The Dresscamp Autumn Winter 2014-15 runway show at Audi Fashion Week 2014 was presented by Parco Japan and held on Saturday, May 17, 2014. For more information about Dresscamp, go to dresscamp.jp; you can follow the brand on Facebook at www.facebook.com/DRESSCAMP and on Twitter at @DRESSCAMP_JP. To shop Dresscamp, go to shop.dresscamp.jp. Stay up-to-date with AFF2014 news by following the hashtag #affsg.