TOKYO – Inspired by the house designed by Charles and Robert Eames, Japanese designer created a collection entitled “Designare” ‒ the Latin word for “mark out” or “plan” ‒ for Autumn Winter 2014-15.
The runway show at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tokyo happened within a purpose-built grid-like frame that echoed the internal structure of a house that was set up in the main hall at Shibuya Hikarie; for Spring Summer 2013 Ezumi showed in the smaller hall, this season he graduated to the main space ‒ no doubt due in part to his winning the DHL Designer Award for emerging brands that have international potential.
The “grid” stage at Yasutoshi Ezumi AW14 runway show at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tokyo.
Image: Niki Bruce using Samsung NX30 camera
The Eames House was constructed from prefabricated parts as part of the Eames brothers’ investigations into mass production in 1949; the exterior was painted in Mondrian-like blocks of colour while the interior was left rather plain. These concepts were translated by Ezumi into a series of garments that appeared to be geometric blocks of colour and texture denoted by various fabrics.
“This season is about rearranging existing parts and details of contemporary garment construction. Planned and designed to create a new form and use in fashion,” read the show notes. This meant that combined with the layers of colour and texture was the addition of pieces that appeared separated from a different garment then added to a new one, most successfully in the use of a kind of pleated overskirt buckled around the hips.
The colours used throughout were somewhat reminiscent of the 1980s, slightly off-true but quite rich; the rust red, yellow beige, true blue and an aqua green were lovely when set against black and white. The plaid pieces came with matching printed plaid tights; the only accessories on the runway.
Yasutoshi Ezumi Autumn Winter 2014-15. Images: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tokyo
Known for working with knits, Ezumi created a series of louche sweaters that bore off-centre hems and offset boatnecks; a softer, less stringently grid-like feel came from a series of knotted sweater-dresses and a fabulous pair of palazzo pants. The sweaters came with off-set slits front and back so you could easily see the shirts in contrast fabric worn underneath.
Yasutoshi Ezumi Autumn Winter 2014-15. Images: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tokyo
Perhaps the best exponent of Ezumi’s concept was the finale dress. Constructed of various fabrics in a black and white windowpane check, black, white and cream, the offset rectangles dropped down to a belted hem at knee height which then frothed out into a mermaid-like ankle-length skirt; the separated fabric pieces fell away from the body at the back.
Above top: Yasutoshi Ezumi Autumn Winter 2014-15. Images: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tokyo
Above: The final dress at Yasutoshi Ezumi Autumn Winter 2014-15. Image: Niki Bruce via iPhone
Overall the Autumn Winter 2014-14 collection from Yasutoshi Ezumi is very wearable; the interesting layers and textures elevating it slightly above run-of-the-mill retail wear.
For more information about Yasutoshi Ezumi, go to www.yasutoshiezumi.com. You can follow the brand on Facebook at www.facebook.com/Yasutoshi-Ezumi and on Twitter at @yasutoshiezumi. For more information about Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tokyo, go to tokyo-mbfashionweek.com. You can follow the event on Facebook at www.facebook.com/MercedesBenzFashionWeekTOKYO and on Twitter at @MBFWT_official.
