Sonia Rykiel ©AFP PHOTO / PATRICK KOVARIK

Sonia Rykiel
Dominated by neutral shades such as beige, camel, white, pale yellow and coral, the Sonia Rykiel collection emphasised soft and flowing fabrics. In line with an overall trend seen this season, oversize looks were abundant, highlighting that comfort doesn’t have to come at the expense of elegance. Layering effects and asymmetry, along with a number of word prints, were among this line’s distinguishing characteristics.


Vanessa Bruno © AFP PHOTO / MIGUEL MEDINA

Vanessa Bruno
This Autumn Winter 2014 collection, consisting primarily of lightweight and soft fabrics, included above-the-knee skirts, sleeveless tops and dresses, and plunging necklines. Among the highlights of this almost summery show: studded leather sandals, which are expected to be all the rage next season.


Maison Martin Margiela ©AFP PHOTO / FRANCOIS GUILLOT

Maison Martin Margiela
Layering was key at the Maison Martin Margiela show, which often emphasised masculine/feminine contrasts, pairing airy slips with thigh-high black leather boots, for example. But there was nothing masculine about the tailoring, which consistently emphasised the models’ slender waists, namely through thin belts. Among the most original pieces in this show: dickies in brown tooled leather.


Vivienne Westwood ©AFP PHOTO / PATRICK KOVARIK

Vivienne Westwood
As usual, the British stylist took the cake when it comes to originality. Unveiled in the Oratoire du Louvre, a Protestant church near the famous museum, the new collection was conceived as a fresh take on the work of Victorian-era couturier Charles Frederick Worth. But alongside elements of Victorian influence (full sleeves, high necks), the collection exhibited a more primal side, including an impressive array of colourful prints echoing tribal motifs.


Viktor & Rolf ©AFP PHOTO / MIGUEL MEDINA

Viktor & Rolf
The two designers offered an entirely new take on certain women’s wear classics, which they transformed into glamorous, must-have items. V-neck sweaters, for example, became ultra-sexy high-low dresses, while the classic cable knit motif made its way into numerous prints seen on feminine coats, blouses and dresses. Like many of their colleagues this season, Viktor & Rolf presented a number of loose-fitting pieces. In terms of colors, the Dutch duo stuck to a wide variety of greys.


Jean Paul Gaultier ©AFP PHOTO / MIGUEL MEDINA

Jean Paul Gaultier
The couturier outdid himself once again this season, delighting the fashion world with a characteristically campy futuristic collection. Most of the models wore sci-fi inspired ensembles, including spacesuits in quilted satin and helmet-like hoods. There was also an element of punk influence, seen in Union Jack prints, tartans and studded leather. – AFP RELAXNEWS