Before we move on to the city in United Kingdom, we take a look at the things that went down at NYFW. To sum things up: It was a blast to the past. Literally. Were New York-based designers feeling nostalgic? Or could the past be a happier moment for America, and that creatives chose to express their longing for it through their collections?
Here are five significant moments that had happened at New York Fashion Week F/W’19.
1. The revival of the OG supermodels conquering the runways
About tonight! OMG @themarcjacobs invited me to close his beautiful show tonight and I couldn’t resist. A. I have known and loved this man since I met him at age 16. B. I turned 50 this year and have arrived at a place where “Why the F not” is the answer that comes up when I ask myself questions. C. I have a 15 year old daughter who I desperately want to see and hear me and this is a medium that “speaks”to her. So, thank you’s are in order, @karliekloss @gigihadid and @kaiagerber and all the lovely young women I have met briefly in the recent past or met tonight. You are ALL women I would want my daughter to emulate in your grace, confidence and elegance. Always reassuring to have @guidopalau @diane.kendal @stephenjonesmillinery and @kegrand encouraging you on and making you look and feel your best. And while that muscle did not hurt as much as I would have thought to exercise again, after 20 plus years, I am not certain I could beat the experience of tonight or wish to try! Now I can say exactly when and for whom I last walked a runway and feel so proud of all the forces of nature who made it possible! @1.800.newbold & Congratulations for all of the amazing people who put shows like this together. I am in awe of the efforts I was able to witness firsthand and truly appreciate from a new perspective over the last couple of days all the effort that goes in. Bravo!
The F/W’19 runways saw a return of many legendary supermodels, apart from icons like Naomi Campbell and Cindy Crawford who had continued to flaunt their gams and enviable stature at almost every fashion week.
“About tonight! OMG @themarcjacobs invited me to close his beautiful show tonight and I couldn’t resist,” she wrote on her Instagram post, which depicted her in a black feathery ruffled gown. “A. I have known and loved this man since I met him at age 16. B. I turned 50 this year and have arrived at a place where ‘Why the F not’ is the answer that comes up when I ask myself questions. C. I have a 15 year old daughter who I desperately want to see and hear me and this is a medium that ‘speaks’ to her,” she continued.
Apart from Turlington, Patti Hansen, a former model who once graced the coveted covers of Vogue and Glamour magazines, made a reappearance as well. She closed the Michael Kors show in a very Hansen demeanour: The rockstar was seen in a glittery gold pant-suit and a pair of matching platform heels.
2. Tom Ford’s ironic response to America’s negative culture
Though Tom told Vogue that he “[didn’t] want to wear anything particularly challenging or anything particularly aggressive” as part of a response to America’s ongoing negative culture, we can’t help but wonder if sophistication was his idea of simplicity.
Translated at his show were garments fashioned out of luxe materials: Velvet two-piece suits, silk-satin pants, plush fur hats and a sequin gown. Was Gucci’s ’90s glam and sex appeal his idea of understated? All we can say is that it was more tamed than his past few collections.
3. It was all about the glamourous lifestyle at Studio 54 with Michael Kors
Going back in time to a few more decades, the era taking lead at Michael Kors was the ‘70s. The nightclub scene, particularly the iconic Studio 54, was the primary factor that propelled Kors’ idea of “revisiting the past”.
In fact, he bought the rights to the club’s brand logo. It was seen plastered across oversized puffer coats, printed silk blouses and even on sequinned t-shirt dresses. If that didn’t scream Studio 54 enough, what could possibly be louder than that?
The lady who closed the show. Yup, we’ve mentioned it: Patti Hansen, the model who — wait for it — frequented Studio 54.
4. Staud celebrates joy and freedom with dancing
Another designer who’s referencing the ’70s was Sarah Staudinger, the creative brain behind Staud.
“For me, it’s a really important collection because fashion for me is not just about the way clothes make you feel, but the way people move in the clothes…It’s all about real people living…their best lives,” Sarah told Women’s Wear Daily. And for her, it was the ‘70s jovial attitude that inspired her F/W’19 collection.
Apart from the slip dresses and flare pants (which served as a visual medium that translated the idea of liberation during that era) that plastered the show, the notion of freedom can be seen from the models’ cheery attitude on the runway. Walking was replaced with dancing to the upbeat rhythm of Tavares’ Heaven Must Be Missing an Angel (1976). We dare say that the atmosphere took our breaths away.
5. Japan took over at Marc Jacobs
The star of NYFW who had caught the attention of many fashion insiders was Tomo Koizumi, a Japanese costume designer that Marc Jacobs’ stylist Katie Grand had fortuitously discovered on Instagram.
A prelude to the Marc Jacobs show, Koizumi made his debut with gargantuan organza ruffled gown soaked in rainbow hues that were shown at the basement of Marc Jacobs’ pop-up store in Madison Avenue.
The vibrant colourway and OTT cuts (that are, de facto, very Japanese) were the designer’s way of displaying the idea of happiness and freedom through fashion. “I got that feeling of vastness and joyousness [from Koizumi],” Katie told Women’s Wear Daily.