Marc Jacobs unveils ‘melancholy’ line at NYFW

Marc Jacobs' FW'13 line is largely influenced by Hurricane Sandy

Marc Jacobs hopes his Fall/Winter 13 line is a mix of "glamorous, sadness and melancholy".

The designer helped close out New York Fashion Week last night, presenting at the New York State Armory.

The creation of the collection was a fraught time for Mark, who had to leave his home after Hurricane Sandy last year. He was scheduled to present earlier this week, but delayed the show due to issues with his fabrics.

Marc Jacobs unveils ‘melancholy’ line

He was advised to use the effects of the superstorm in his work and explained what his inspiration was.

"There was just something about comfort and familiarity," he is quoted as saying. "It’s very simple, very straightforward, beautiful and nice…glamorous, but [with] a kind of sadness and melancholy. There’s a romance to it.”

To help show his inspiration, Marc created a set which boasted a huge sun shining down on models. The light which poured from it was a strange amber hue and so stripped the clothes of all colour, making it seem they were dressed in black and white pieces.

The women then took a second trip around the circular, concrete-poured runway - this time in normal light.

The change was enormous, where previously sepia-toned pieces had been there were shiny suits in greens and bronzes, as well as well-cut hotpants and dark blue box jackets shot through with glittering silver.

Many of the overcoats boasted the rounded power shoulders which have been a huge look on the New York runway, coming in camel for the classic woman or brighter blue for people wanting something more special.

Key looks included fur overcoats and slim-fitting dresses which were also made from the shaggy fabric. The hotpants came down the runway time and again, sometimes paired with a thin-knit top or box jacket and once with the model wearing nothing else at all - her arms across her chest to protect her modesty.

The designer ramped up the glamour for his evening wear, showing high-shine dresses and pencil skirts with matching jackets.

A gold full-length dress was worn with a fur stole, while the same gown came in dark red.

Those who love sparkle were also well catered for, with a floor-sweeping tight dress coming in silver sequins and an evening coat to the knee made from purple glitter - with fur all over the lapel.