NEW YORK – A metallic gold curtain which opened dramatically to reveal girls sitting on chairs under coloured light, tableaux-style, and an almost-haunting soundtrack repeating “one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight”, over and over, and you have the beginning of the Marc Jacobs Spring Summer 2012 fashion show.

Marc Jacobs himself said to Cathy Horyn from The New York Times that he wanted, “the feel of a southern dance hall”, which likely meant both his collection and the opening dramatics.

Maybe Marc Jacobs missed that decade, but it was obvious from the very first look that this dance hall was set in the 1920s, with a semi-sheer sequin and fringe dress pointing to the chain-smoking, Charleston-dancing flapper girls of the era.

The southern references appeared in the form of clear PVC ankle cowboy booties, silk-chiffon gingham shirts in cornflower blue and moss green which later segued into larger tablecloth-like squares that were worn as translucent dresses over dainty bralettes.

WWD called the look a Mod Daisy Buchanan, but this Daisy Buchanan is more likely to be living in Texas rather than in New York, and perhaps much more of a tease from the number of – somewhat bizarre – cellophane sheet skirts that models wore bunched around their waists.

If there was one thing the collection wasn’t lacking, it was an abundance of fringe and diaphanous pieces, though Marc Jacobs did manage to prevent them from descending into garishness by layering refined, ladylike leather jackets in a muted, light grey or black on top.

There was more: raglan tees in mint green, heather grey and lemon worn with twisted skirts and jersey headbands, 20s drop-waist dresses in neutral beige or teal and studded eyelet skirts in gold, silver and bronze

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All images from Showbit

The finale was by far one of the most theatrical; models settled back into their positions on stage and posed as the curtains slowly closed.

Carrying it a tad too far? Perhaps, but we doubt Marc would have it any other way.