After last week’s announcement that the German designer Jil Sander has parted ways with her namesake luxury label, we take a look at some potential successors.
Founder of the brand in 1968, Jil Sander’s relationship with her label has been something of a revolving door, with a series of departures and returns. Now she’s out of the door for the third (and perhaps final) time.
In a statement released on October 24, 2013, Jil Sander CEO Alessandro Cremonesi thanked the designer for her contribution, with the brand explaining that the upcoming Autumn Winter 2014 collection (set for a February 2014 runway show in Milan) would be designed by the current creative team.
This is a tactic that has worked for a number of labels; at Alexander McQueen, former second-in-command Sarah Burton took over the creative direction role after the eponymous designer’s sad death in 2010. Since then Burton has produced a series of commercially and critically lauded collections, as well as giving birth to twin sons. Equally at Maison Martin Margiela, design duties have been carried out by internal teams ever since the Belgian departed back in 2008.
But if the company decides not to promote from within, who else might take control of creative direction at Jil Sander?
Nicolas Ghesquière is currently out of a job after his departure from the French luxury house Balenciaga in November 2012, after 15 years at the brand. The smart money says he’s already been lined up to replace the outgoing Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, nonetheless, if that deal falls through, he might be the man for the job at Jil Sander.
J.W. Anderson is another name that’s been linked to the role. Previous collaborations with Versace (he designed the first in a series of guest collaborations for the Versus Versace label) and Topshop have show the Northern Irish-born, London-based designer’s range. However he’s just had a major investment from French luxury giant LVMH in his own label and has been given the creative director role at Spanish luxury brand Loewe, so perhaps this is one job too many.
Milan-based Gabriele Colangelo is the final name being touted around at the moment. The Italian designer who was previously at Versace and Jil Sander, has been showing his own womenswear line in Milan since 2008, and has recieved plenty of plaudits for his pared back yet finely detailed collections. While there’s been no official confirmation or denial, if current press reports are to be believed then he’s certainly the one to watch. – AFP RELAXNEWS
Image credit: A look from Jil Sander’s final Spring/Summer 2014 ready-to-wear collection at her namesake label. ©AFP PHOTO / GIUSEPPE CACACE