Miu Miu Spring Summer 2012 grey schoolgirlThere was the expected “girlishness” of the label in the Miu Miu Spring Summer 2012 collection, but it was tempered with a subtle gothic flavour, giving what could have been ordinary pieces based on a mid-century schoolgirl aesthetic an added depth.

The collection started with a series of plain, grey, A-line skirts with fitted blouses and morphed into intricately detailed dresses with fine pleating, smocking and patchwork.

Colours remained mostly dark but the addition of rich reds, royal purple, icy pale blues and pinks and pops of acid lemon yellow livened up the palette.

Lace also featured strongly as an overlay on coats and dresses backed by contrasting colours – grey on gold or red on tan – were interspersed with full-skirted coat-dresses in icy pinks and blues.

Accessories were a mix of ladylike and little girl with formal shapes like short-handled bags and pointed-toe velvet mules softened by elaborate embroidery and pops of colour alongside intricately worked mid-calf boots with sculptured heels and twining roses.

What could have been an overly “young” collection – what with its full, and short, skirts and schoolgirl motif – was saved by a dark “gothic” flavour and the sex appeal of subverted classic shapes cut just a little tighter, or shorter, or lower than expected.

Miu Miu boutiques are located at Paragon, #01-01, 290 Orchard Road, Tel: 6735 5026, Ion Orchard, #01-27, 2 Orchard Turn, Tel: 6509 8987, and Changi Airport #026-081, Terminal 2, Tel: 6542 1241. The Miu Miu Spring Summer 2012 collection is expected in store in March, 2012.