IN TOKYO – Dresscamp designer Toshikazu Iwaya is known for his ability to combine theatricality, streetwear and couture-like tailoring in his collections for the brand, calling on his background as a graduate of Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo, a designer of theatre costumes and as the creative director of Onitsuka Tiger and Asics’ Top Impact Line.

So it was to be expected that his show on the opening day of Tokyo’s fashion week – officially the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo (MBFWT) – was going to be packed with as many of fashion’s movers-and-shakers as could fit in the room; even Anna dello Russo, the nominal “Fashion Editor-at-Large” for Vogue Tokyo was in attendance (wearing Dresscamp from head-to-toe but of course).

dresscamp ss15 tokyo fashion week DECOR 1Opening looks at Dresscamp Spring Summer 2015. Images: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo

Nor did Iwaya-San disappoint. The show was entitled “A Rule of ‘Ultra Violet’: Ultra Violet’s style, Bauhaus, Composition of Jean-Paul Goude, Colors” … A complete mouthful of concepts which actually didn’t seem to translate much into the collection which was all about 80s prom dresses, tulle, sequins, feather-embellished shoes, prints of crazy cartoon prints from artist Kazzrock, 60s swing dresses, millions of ruffles, gold and silver lame, cricket sweaters, exaggerated peplums and more tulle ‒ and that was just the womenswear!

dresscamp ss15 tokyo fashion week DECOR 2dresscamp ss15 tokyo fashion week DECOR 3

Dresscamp Spring Summer 2015. Images: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo

While the title inspirations were hard to discern, the sub-title of “Extremely innocent, Evilness from the Innocence, As it were ‘Bacchanalia’” was actually a bit clearer oddly enough.

dresscamp ss15 tokyo fashion week DECOR 4dresscamp ss15 tokyo fashion week DECOR 5

Dresscamp Spring Summer 2015. Images: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo

The “little girl” shapes of short swing dresses, over-sized peplums, full sleeves and ruffles did impart a kind of “innocence lost” when combined with the crazy prints and touches of transparency.

dresscamp ss15 tokyo fashion week DECOR 6

Dresscamp Spring Summer 2015. Images: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo

There was also a sense of good-girl-gone-bad in the loosely fitting “prom dresses” in gold and silver lame or sequin-sprinkled tulle with flower-embellished bodices. The use of text ‒ Queen or Master – added to the streetwear-sporty vibe, as did the cricket sweaters; the best version of which came with a layered mini-skirt of silk cut-out petals.

The menswear was solidly in the “G-Dragon will probably wear this in his next MV” camp, with fringed sweatpants, text embellished sweatshirts and cricket sweaters, knee-high fringed boots (which girls will definitely want too), shirts long enough to be dresses, dressing gowns as outerwear and men-in-skirts.

dresscamp ss15 tokyo fashion week DECOR MEN 1
dresscamp ss15 tokyo fashion week DECOR MEN 2

Oh … the brand does underwear too! Dresscamp Spring Summer 2015. Images: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo

The prints from the girls were echoed in the menswear and the whole came together almost seamlessly as the ultimate wardrobe for cool-kids-who-are-so-cool-they’re-frozen.

WATCH DRESSCAMP SS15 RUNWAY SHOW:

With his Spring Summer 2015 collection you can see that Iwaya-San is really coming into his own with his unique blend of disparate influences. What stood out most strongly is that his pieces are becoming a lot more wearable for the “ordinary” person – ie. someone who’s not a model, a performer or a top fashion blogger from Harajuku – but that he hasn’t lost any of his creativity in doing so.

Dresscamp is a label to watch. I wouldn’t be surprised to see it as the next Japanese brand to show in Paris … When it does, I’ll be able to say I told you so.

For more information about Dresscamp, go to http://dresscamp.jp/collection/2014aw/; you can follow the brand on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/DRESSCAMP and on Twitter at @DRESSCAMP_JP https://twitter.com/DRESSCAMP_JP. To shop Dresscamp, go to http://shop.dresscamp.jp/.