From The Straits Times    |

TOKYO – Japanese fashion label mintdesigns once again showed why it’s one of the country’s best young brands with its Autumn Winter 2014 runway show at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tokyo.

Entitled Ⓐ or “Anarchy”, the husband and wife design team of Mr Hokuyo Katsui and Ms Nao Yagi, managed to somehow combine the brand’s DNA of fun, colour, structured volume and quirky prints with the feeling of early punk, rockabilly and, of all these, ye olde Scottish highlands.

The soundtrack by Masayoshi Tomioka & Shige was the underlying strength of the show ranging from off-key beats to actual bagpipes ‒ yes, really ‒ the soundtrack enabled the connections to be made more obviously between the historical references and the mintdesign team’s subtle work.

mintdesigns aw14 at japan fashion week DECOR 1mintdesigns Autumn Winter 2014-15 at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tokyo. Images: Niki Bruce via iPhone

Opening with a mix of leather biker jacket and own-design open grid check print in a flowing dress accompanied by thick-soled flat lace-up brogues ‒ practically the only “trend” in the collection; but then mintdesigns has always done flat shoes ‒ the collection was clearly thought out and tightly put together.

Known for its use of traditional Japanese textile techniques and strong use of colour, the mostly monochrome AW14 show showed its “Anarchy”, which was clear in the references to early British punk themes ‒ in particular the checked drainpipe trousers, the use of studs and leather, and the very clever “safety-pin” print. Rockabilly had an influence via the shoes and Scottish kilts and draping were evident throughout the collection; Braveheart perhaps?

However the designers managed to reference all three without losing a bit of what it is that makes mintdesigns; mintdesigns. The signature use of odd colours ‒ magenta, faded mint green, a dusty pink, and clear blue (Blue Suede Shoes?) ‒ structured volume and own prints, including the now iconic “mintdesigns girl”, remained.

What has improved over the last three season has been the fit and cut of the garments. Once again the designers have refined their aesthetic making it softer, more wearable, but continuing to send something interesting down the runway. Each piece was well thought out, the draping was better placed, adding rather than subtracting from a woman’s shape.

The coats had wonderfully-full swing backs, but were more tailored in the front and for once the waist was not obscured completely via layers of fabric; the fit was more flattering, not “sexy” in the European manner but more so than in previous collections. The addition of leather and brightly shining “studs” added a toughness to the brand which is more usually “arty”, a welcome new nuance.

mintdesigns aw14 at japan fashion week DECOR LEATHERmintdesigns Autumn Winter 2014-15 at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tokyo. Images: Niki Bruce via iPhone

Overall, the AW14 collection showed that mintdesigns truly is a Japanese brand which should be taking its place on the international fashion stage; each season the designers have refined their aesthetic, keeping their loyal customers (who made up half the audience at the show) but also enticing new ones.

Watching the mintdesigns show I couldn’t control my personal excitement; from start to finish it was an awesome show. Watching something that perfectly defines its brand but takes it to the next level is one of the greatest types of fashion shows. Best of all; there was hardly a “trend” in sight, unlike many of the “big four” fashion week brands, mintdesigns was wholly itself. The entire collection was wearable, interesting and above all, saying something in its own voice.

WATCH THE MINTDESIGNS AW14-15 RUNWAY SHOW
I was so excited about this collection that I almost completely forgot to take photos, thank goodness I kept the video going, especially since the soundtrack was so integral to making the show such a success.

For more information about mintdesigns, go to www.mint-designs.com. You can shop selected pieces from mintdesigns at www.stylife.co.jp/mintdesigns and zozo.jp/brand/mintdesigns. For more information about Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tokyo, go to tokyo-mbfashionweek.com. You can follow the event on Facebook at www.facebook.com/MercedesBenzFashionWeekTOKYO and on Twitter at @MBFWT_official.