TOKYO – A relatively young label, Yasutoshi Ezumi is only into its third year after launching in 2010; the designer, however, has a fair bit of experience. He graduated from Central Saint Martin’s College in the UK, worked as an assistant at Alexander McQueen and as a knitwear designers at Aquascutum London.
Expectations for his eponymous label were understandably high. Six collections into his career and Yasutoshi Ezumi is beginning to create a signature look as he works on developing the DNA of his brand.
Structural looks opened the Yasutoshi Ezumi Spring Summer 2014 show at Japan Fashion Week. Images: Wesley Kow
Despite working in knitwear previously, Ezumi now focuses on more structural shapes using his tailoring techniques, using monochrome and colour-blocking to reinforce this concept.
Entitled “Architectonic”, the Spring Summer 2014 collection worked best when the designer used more restrained shapes to get his message across; the opening looks in monochrome contrasts of fabric textures were his strongest of the collection.
Other pieces did reference his previous experience as Ezumi introduced coloured knits – those with interestingly “stepped” geometric hems worked best.
More looks from the Yasutoshi Ezumi Spring Summer 2014 show at Japan Fashion Week including geometric knitwear. Images: Wesley Kow
The inclusion of a geometric print did little to reinforce the severe “architectural” feel, particularly as it appeared on generic long, loose button-through shirts – pieces useful for retail perhaps, but that did nothing for the overall story of the collection.
Likewise the wide-legged, almost culottes style pants were a departure from the more fitted shapes of perforated leather that opened the show – the hem length was particularly unflattering cut off at mid-calf as it was – there were also way too many of them; a good edit would have made a difference.
The most successful piece of the SS14 collection that managed to bridge Ezumi’s apparent push-pull of two conflicting styles – structured tailoring on one side and feminine draping on the other – was the finale dress.
Graphic print and the finale dress at the Yasutoshi Ezumi Spring Summer 2014 show at Japan Fashion Week. Images: Wesley Kow
Created from a heavy felt-like fabric, the cut echoed the shape of a woman’s body but in a stiff, structured way that stood out from the form, a “waterfall” of lighter, textured chiffon wrapped around the dress ending in a mini train and bordered with a heavier fabric to ensure it would fall correctly.
Although the whole “mullet” skirt concept is rather tired – too many bad versions on blogshops – Ezumi’s managed to just about escape that cliché thanks to the structured body and use of quality materials; however it would have been interesting to see the same dress reimagined with a less obvious skirt shape.
WATCH OUR VIDEO OF YASUTOSHI EZUMI SS14:
Overall the Yasutoshi Ezumi Spring Summer 2014 collection was an interesting look at the development, and dilemmas, of being a fashion designer in 2013. One needs to express a distinct design concept – difficult when pretty much everything has already been done – while also staying in business, ie. making things people will buy.
Once Ezumi works out how to better incorporate his two, contradictory, influences, fashion lovers – and shoppers – will have an interesting new label to covet.
The Yasutoshi Ezumi Spring Summer 2014 show was held on October 14, 2013, as part of Japan Fashion Week. For more information about the brand, go to www.yasutoshiezumi.com. For more information about Japan Fashion Week, go to tokyo-mbfashionweek.com; follow it on Facebook at www.facebook.com/japanfashionweek and on Twitter at @jfw_official.
