Why your skin needs niacinamide when you WFH

Here are the benefits of the popular ingredient, as well as product recommendations

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The thing we miss most about being in the office – sorry, work BFFs – is the air-con. Working in a non-aircon home office gives us more breakouts, oilier, more reactive skin, and less radiance. That’s where niacinamide, or vitamin B3, comes in.

Dr Eileen Tan, dermatologist at Eileen Tan Skin Clinic and Associates, Mount Elizabeth Novena Hospital, says the ingredient has three top benefits. It’s a powerful anti-ager as it protects cells against photo damage and environmental pollution. It is anti-inflammatory, so it will not worsen eczema, rosacea and acne. It also helps to both boost moisture content and reduce moisture loss in skin.

Other lesser-known benefits include lightening pigmentation and reducing pore size. Plus, it’s safe to use during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
Xenia Wong, founder of Sigi Skin, is a fan of niacinamide. It’s used in three of her products, including the newest Dream Capsule overnight mask.

Wong started looking into the ingredient to help her own hyperpigmentation issues, then discovered it could do so much more. “Many Dream Capsule users have commented that their pores look smaller and pimple scars fade faster. It also works well with moisturising ingredients to restore skin’s moisture.”

Niacinamide also co-exists well with many active ingredients, says Dr Tan. “It can be combined with retinol or azelaic acid for anti-ageing and anti-inflammatory effects. It also works well with hyaluronic acid to improve skin absorption and hydration.”

Here are the benefits of niacinamide.

1. It strengthens skin barrier functions

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According to studies, niacinamide helps strengthen your skin’s barrier function, which is essential in maintain a healthy, glowing visage. It does so by limiting transepidermal water loss (the amount of water your skin loses to the environment), and improves the moisture level of your skin. In addition, niacinamide also stimulates the production of ceramides, which in turn strengthens your skin, keeping wrinkles, fine lines and dullness at bay.

2. It calms down redness

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Niacinamide, when applied topically or taken orally, has anti-inflammatory properties. This means that it is capable of treating skin issues stemming from inflammation, such as acne. Inflammation associated with mild to moderate rosacea can also be treated in this way, instead of using steroids. Some studies suggest that niacinamide’s soothing properties may also come from its ability to repair the skin’s barrier function.

3. It helps fight oily skin and acne

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Research has suggested that niacinamide inhibits the production of sebum when applied to the skin, which can be helpful for those suffering from acne. In addition, niacinamide is a relatively mild ingredient, which means that people with dry or sensitive skin can add it to their skincare repertoire.

4. It helps fade hyperpigmentation

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A few studies have shown that niacinamide, when applied at 5 per cent concentration for 12 weeks, yielded signification improvements in dark spots, fine lines and wrinkles compared to the control group. One study pitted niacinamide against the gold standard in skin lightening: hydroquinone. Although niacinamide didn’t perform as well as hydroquinone, it does not come with as many side effects.

5. It has some slight side effects

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Niacinamide is a relatively gentle ingredient, and most people tolerate it. However, some people may be sensitive to the ingredient. The only way to make sure is to patch test if you’re new to niacinamide. Apply a small amount of the product containing niacinamide to your jaw, and leave it overnight. If your skin does not react adversely, you’re good to go. Otherwise, stop using the product completely.

One prominent side effect of niacinamide is flushing. When applied in conjunction with L-ascorbic acid, a form of vitamin C, the two ingredients react and causes your skin to flush. To get around this, we suggest applying niacinamide products in the morning, and vitamin C at night.

 
Try these products that contain niacinamide.

The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, $10

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Niacinamide + zinc fights zits and keeps skin shine-free and clear. From www.escentials.com and its stores

Skin Inc My Daily Dose of Armour, $98

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Combines vitamin B3 with pro-vitamin B5, adding liquorice and ceramides to clear up blemishes and post-acne pigmentation, shrink the look of pores and strengthen skin. From www.iloveskininc.com.sg and Skin Inc stores.

Also read: HW Beauty Review: The Serum That Got Rid Of My Pimples

Yves Saint Laurent Beaute Pure Shots Airthin UV Defender SPF50+/PA++++, $92

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Made of 100 per cent niacinamide and citrus peel, its ultra-thin texture (eight times thinner than regular sunscreens) lets skin breathe more easily. From www.tangs.com, www.metro.com.sg and www.isetan.com.sg

Sigi Skin Dream Capsule, $82

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Niacinamide works with bakuchiol (a plant-derived retinol alternative) to repair and nourish skin all night. From www.sigiskin.com

Dr Jart+ Vital Hydra Solution Biome Night Therapy Mask, $51, Sephora

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Nourishes thirsty skin to give you a smooth and velvety-soft complexion in the morning.
 

A version of this article was published in the July issue of Her World.

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