From The Straits Times    |
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Image: ST

Anyone who has had wonton noodles in Bangkok will be struck by how unadorned it is. The noodles are tossed in a bit of oil, nothing like the versions here, which might have dark and/or light soya sauces, sesame oil, sambal and even ketchup mixed into it.

In Singapore, a coffee shop stall in Ang Mo Kio is selling simple, satisfying bowls of Thai-style wonton noodles. Its name, Soi 19 Thai Wanton Mee, makes reference to the popular SabX2, a stall located at Soi Petchburi 19 in Bangkok’s Pratunam area.

While standing in line – there is always one, even just after the opening time of 7.15am – I see that the owner has put up photos of himself with the blond mohawked SabX2 noodle seller.

The noodles ($3.50 or $5) are not as springy as in Thailand, but they have a delightful simplicity, being tossed in what tastes like garlic oil. Those who must have condiments can load up on chilli flakes, sliced chillies and fish sauce, laid out at the stall.

I help myself only to sinful, delightful cubes of crunchy lard. The noodles are topped with slices of char siew and two pieces of waxed sausage, both not bad but unremarkable, and two plump fried wontons, which are good.

Two more dumplings are served in soup and these manage to be cloudlike yet substantial.

The stall opens only on some days of the week, so check its Facebook page to find out when it is safe to go.

Where: Soi 19 Thai Wanton Mee, Block 151 Ang Mo Kio Avenue 5 MRT: Yio Chu Kang Open: 7.15am – 3.30pm Info: To find out which days it is open, go to www.facebook.com/pages/Soi-19-Thai-Wanton-Mee/511834992185973

This article was first run in The Straits Times newspaper on September 26, 2014. For similar stories, go to sph.straitstimes.com/premium/singapore. You will not be able to access the Premium section of The Straits Times website unless you are already a subscriber.

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