TOKYO – Inspired by the film Damages, London-based fashion designer Johan Ku sent out a series of sexy dresses and separates for his eponymous Gold Label Autumn Winter 2013-14 collection as part of Japan Fashion Week on March 21, 2013.
Ku shows in New York and Paris as well as Tokyo, but his staging at WWW in Shibuya was all original set as it was on an actual stage; the models walked from left to right, being tracked by a same-time camera, before halting in the centre-front of the space.
Known for his extreme sculptural knits featuring various types of knotwork, the AW13-14 collection entitled “Anna” came in the form of more wearable woven separates, including printed leggings and dresses, and also a number of leather pieces including the opening jacket.
While these pieces are certainly more wearable for the average woman, they’re nowhere near as exciting as Ku’s signature knits. His skill in creating three-dimensional textures that appear like heavy lace or brocade, make simply cut pieces – especially the coats – truly eye-catching.
Ku’s oversized cable knits are also quite stunning, moving around the body and using skeins as structural pieces like sleeves and halter-necks to hold onto the body, these are not the sort of knit dress your mother used to wear.
Some are quite revealing, all are very architectural, sometimes with even more protruding shapes creating “shelves” that jutted out from the body. More conventional were the long gowns with “tassels” dangling from them and some knitted “body-con” minis.
The absolute stand-out piece from Johan Ku Gold Label AW13-14 was the closing gown; somehow the designer managed to create a “stiffening” effect on his knitted lace, giving it sharp structure and a gloss that elevated mere wool into something appropriate for a red carpet event.
A two-piece outfit also using the same material was less successful – the rear of the skirt being plain and too tight; although the peplum-type top was stunning.
Sticking to dark shades of black, grey, plumb and maroon with a few shots of clear red, the AW13-14 collection appear more in-tune with traditional, seasonal colours – perhaps the only “traditional” thing about it.
WATCH JOHAN KU GOLD LABEL AW13-14:
The Johan Ku Gold Label Autumn Winter 2013-14 collection was shown on March 22, 2013, as part of Japan Fashion Week. For more information about Johan Ku, go to www.johanku.com. Follow the brand on Facebook at www.facebook.com/johankudesign and on Twitter at @_johan_ku. For more information about Japan Fashion Week, go to tokyo-mbfashionweek.com; follow it on Facebook at www.facebook.com/japanfashionweek and on Twitter at @jfw_official. All images from Japan Fashion Week & Niki Bruce