From The Straits Times    |

It goes without saying that British designer Phoebe Philo, the woman behind the iconic minimalism of Céline, is always one to watch.

When Céline Autumn Winter 2011 sauntered down the runway, fans of the brand were excited to see more of the classic – but most importantly, wearable – shapes they have come to know and love.

For fashionistas and fashion media, the collection was even more exciting. With AW2011, Philo has spread her wings, albeit slightly, and pulled in more detailing, more patterns and some bright shiny colour.

According to the brand – Philo doesn’t particularly like press releases but will discuss her ideas with the team – the AW11 collection was “inspired by the ’50s and 60s British underground scene – hence the Glenchecks and houndstooth fabrics”.


There was also influence from the Harris Tweed Hebrides tweeds (pictured above) used in a number of looks and the tartan intarsia fabrics. It seems that fabrics and textures were central to the collection’s main concept.

The various tweeds used in the Céline AW2011 collection were in fact made specially for the label and included the use of Shetland wool, the “champagne” of all tweeds apparently. 

Harris tweed is the only fabric that is governed by its own act of Parliament – “genuine Harris Tweed must be made from pure virgin wool, that has been dyed and spun on the islands and hand-woven at the home of the weaver, ie The Outer Hebrides of Scotland”.

From this very historic perspective, Philo moved onwards in time, taking inspiration for the “winter” part of the collection from a 1950s luxury car, the Bentley. 

While this concept was very obviously derivative in the “wood panel” print seen on a number of shell tops and pants, the overall luxe leather feel translated well into sharply tailored pieces in boiled felt and molten wool with leather.

More technology could be seen in the cotton turtleneck tops and sweaters. Created using a knitting machine that is used for making socks and tights, the “thin” knit takes a while to produce but also allows the designer to add various details to the fabric, so you can see a different knit pattern on hems and cuffs.

The insertion of metallic silver, blue and green colour blocking added a 1960s “sci-fi” touch to sharply tailored trousers, made wearable by the addition of kitten heels and classic, soft shirts.


The heroes – or should that be heroines – of the collection are the coats. A leather redingote style is perfectly tailored in precisely cut panels; severe blocky wool day coats are lightened with strong colour and slim tailored long-line jackets become something special when pieced together from a variety of Harris Tweeds.

Fur also showed strongly in the "winter" part of the collection with a series of sumptuous gillets, coats and "scarves", alongside elegant evening wear in black with leather bodices or inserts and sharply cut jackets (pictured below).


Strong colours like burnt orange, a deep red, rich browns and a metallic bronze-green were off-set with Philo’s classic back and white. A series of denim, light blue and a candy pastel pink pieces seemed an unlikely addition to the overall jewel tones of the Céline AW2011 collection; still for those less enamoured of dark shades the same sharp cuts remained.

As with many of the major labels, the first half or “Autumn” part of the collection is already available in stores; including the tasty accessories. 

The entire AW2011 collection featured classic Céline bag shapes – including the Trapeze, the Luggage and the Luggage Phantom – in new materials and colours (pictured below). Shoes were interestingly pointy, truely harking back to the 1950s and included two-tone leathers and kitten heels (pictured below).



Overall, Céline AW2011 is a fairly catholic collection with a variety of textures and colours but remaining distinctly “Céline” – or should that be distinctly “Phoebe Philo”?

While the addition of new materials adds depth to the label’s identity, the Céline that every working woman who’s even vaguely into fashion raves about remains.

Céline is located at #01-30/31, Ngee Ann City. For more on Celine’s AW2011 collection, go to: www.celine.com

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